Kochi

[Dec 12-15]



Our first and northernmost stop in Kerala was Kochi, the biggest port city of the north, and home to a number of tourist-worth spectacles.



The most familiar of these, especially to the design minded, would be the Chinese fishing nets. These graceful stick-and-rope contraptions, rocking like some Waterworld see-saw at the edge of the shore, stand over 15 meters high and require six men to put them in motion. A large net hangs like a bucket from one end of the lever, and a system of rock counterweights balances on the other.







Once the nets have been submerged for some time, the men yank furiously on ropes, swinging in a dance-like rhythm, until the net rises from the sea. The catch, usually consisting of a dozen small fish, ends up for sale at the adjacent tables. Diners can buy a fish from the fishermen, and then take it to a nearby restaurant that charges a buck for frying or grilling it.



Another popular event in Kochi is the Kathakali dance, known to Hindus for its devotional significance, and to westerners for its outrageous makeup. We caught a show that began with a demonstration of basic technique before the performance of the actual Ramayana story. This introduction to the art turned out to be the most amusing part, as we watched the dancer practice his eye-wiggling and cheek-flexing. These dancers seem to control every facial muscle independently, which I found tremendously amusing.







One of our first days in town, Marita was feeling ill, so I disappeared to a temple festival with some stranger. Nice of me, wasn’t it? I met this guy on the street, and after an afternoon cup of tea, he invited me to join him at a festival where I could see elephants, dancing, and music. This sounded like a great opportunity, since non-Hindus are usually not allowed at these festivals.







The streets surrounding the temple were equally full of shops, lights, and families, and the temple itself was decked out in oil lamps. Inside the temple, entire walls were covered with tiny flames, and amplified live music blasted through the courtyard. The elephants were decorated in gold and fabric, then paraded around until all fifteen stood at attention at the front gate.







The whole event was terrific, except that I felt like I was being scammed by my new “friend,” who collected my sizeable "entrance fee" for the temple. Also, I think I stepped barefoot in the remains of an elephant dropping.



Later that night, a healthy Marita and I went to dinner at Domino’s Pizza and watched Fear Factor. Don’t want to overdo the culture.