Vis and Komiza

[June 5-10]

After Greg and Ashley left our company in Split, we felt ready for a dose of seclusion on one of the farthest-west islands in the south of Croatia: Vis.



Vis is more removed from the mainland, both physically and logistically, than either Hvar or Brac, with relatively few ferries serving the island in the low season. Hence it wasn't until ten-o'clock in the evening that we exited the gaping mouth of the boat onto the dark and mostly deserted dock in Vis Town. We intentionally ignored a woman hawking rooms, preferring a booking agency instead, yet when we found that all the agencies closed, we were forced to return to the same lady we'd passed; she was our only option, and she knew it. With a sigh (of relief or of resignation, I'm not sure), we found our way back to her home, paid a slight premium on a merely adequate apartment, and hit the sack.

The next day we left our apartment -- perhaps too quickly -- to explore the neighborhood. Dark clouds hung above our heads, but it wasn't until heavy raindrops began to batter the awning outside the cafe where we ate warm croissants for breakfast that we realized how useful an umbrella would have been. We waited almost half an hour for the rain to subside, then dismissed the idea of staying dry in favor of returning home before lunch. We may have had as much luck swimming as running, since the steep and narrow roads (footpaths?) functioned like wide gutters, channeling all the water from the hills above into a shoe-soaking torrent.



We were not deterred. One change-of-clothes later, the rain stopped, and we headed northwest of town to visit the waterfront, the ruins of Roman baths, and the George the Third Fortress. The fortress was the high point, as it's in relatively good condition for a neglected nineteenth-century building, and there's no restriction on what parts you can visit. While heavy restoration work would be appropriate, we enjoyed seeing how the buildings had decayed over time, with missing flooring on the upper levels and entire courtyards filled in with dirt. The fort is also an obviously popular location for furtive celebration, with graffiti decorating the walls and abandoned couches scattered around piles of ash.



The good weather continued through the next couple days, and we continued to poke around the alleys and waterfront. The town was pleasant overall, but nothing too remarkable happened to us, other than meeting a few cats (admittedly, a notable experience for Marita).


A boat floating in Vis Town's harbor


A crucifix in front of one of Vis Town's churches


Marita wanders the streets of Kut


Vis Town's harbor, with a peninsular church

Half way through our stay on the island, we left Vis Town for Komiza, a sleepy fishing village that's slowly transformed into a getaway for Croatian vacationers. Even more than their mainland counterparts, Komiza's residents manage to work for three to four hours in the morning, followed by three to four hours in the evening, with a break between noon and four-o'clock. This "work" schedule makes the middle of the day suitable only for relaxing at home or leaving town, which is what we did with most of our time.



To kill time, we attempted to climb the mountains above town, only to discover that many paths scaling the hillside were blocked by barbed wire, large rock piles, or the odd goat. Even though we eventually gave up our ascent, we enjoyed some great views of the countryside and surrounding islands. We also spent lots of time reading at home, taking advantage of our apartment's beautiful balcony overlooking the harbor.



Before we finally left town, we stopped off at the local maritime museum, which documents the history of sailing and fishing in the Adriatic Sea. After getting our fill of hooks, nets, and knots, we had just enough time to pack our bags and make the bus back to Vis Town, where our ferry back to Split was waiting for us.